In a past life, Little’s Oyster Bar in Montrose was called Little Pappas Seafood House. While that restaurant has up and moved, the building’s historic bones were renovated to make way for one of Houston’s most exciting new eateries. The refreshed restaurant urges upscale associations, and the market seafood menus abides that ambiance.

Ask to sit in front of the raw bar counter if you want to watch your oysters under the knife. Little’s program focuses on cold water shells from northeast and Canadian waters and can be dressed up with a bit of caviar if you’re feeling fine and fancy. The house mignonette is perfectly tart and clarifying, as are any of the choices from the European-dominated wine list.