The Pappas family took a risk by departing from its classic roster of concepts with its first chef-driven restaurant. Chef Jason Ryczek blends West Coast seafood finesse with Gulf Coast bounty in a sleek, reimagined space where even small touches stand out: think etched martini glasses and house-baked sourdough with cultured butter sprinkled with vivid spirulina salt. The raw bar is easily impresses with oysters, crab, lobster and other seasonal catches. The pricier dishes deliver, too, such as a grouper Meuniére blanketed in a nutty browned butter. Polished service is yet another reminder of the Pappas legacy.

 
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