Pappas Bros. manages to make miracles of meat happen every night. It feels effortless, and that’s the point. The vast fleet of serving and kitchen staff is there to ensure that the evening runs like a smartly scripted play performed by a veteran cast.

It’s distinctly pleasant to hear the simple clink of cutlery and the soft sounds of conversations flowing around you in a well-appointed room. The place conjures images of Vienna in its old-world elegance. Nothing is too much. Not even the unbelievable feat of the breathtakingly tall New York-style cheesecake they bake slow and low, to a texture like a cloud.

All of which makes Pappas Bros. the quintessential steakhouse. No detail is left unattended to, from the polished and professional staff that brushes away table crumbs with rounded scrapers into a serviette to the turtle soup that comes with an optional small snifter of sherry poured tableside. Salmon rillettes arrive in a little glass jar with toast points and whipped chèvre, while four sommeliers watch from the wings, ready to discuss the merits of an unusual find from the impressive wine list or to elucidate their relationship with the vineyards they feature on a deep-dive rotating basis.

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