In true Pappas fashion, this Greek restaurant is already humming as if it’s been operating far longer than five months. The service is professional yet personal. Efficient and detail oriented like the restaurant group’s steakhouses and its newer Little’s Oyster Bar. Naturally, many Houstonians think of Yia Yia Mary’s, but the Upper Kirby restaurant is on its own path. Prices are higher, and the menu leans more fine dining (the popular gyros are nowhere to be found). The convivial atmosphere (fair warning to diners sensitive to loud rooms) is an appropriate backdrop to a menu that’s meant to be shared. You might start with a spread of mezze or a saganaki that’s torched tableside. The Mediterranean sea bass is the most memorable grilled fish I’ve tasted this year: the layers fall apart just enough so you can scoop up the accompanying blistered tomatoes and pearl onions. I can’t wait to see what the next five months bring.

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