When someone from out of town asks for steak, the Pappas family’s flagship — especially the downtown location with its clubby bar and open chef’s counter — is a sure bet. Consistency and quality rarely falter. Start with the deviled eggs, a clever DIY setup where you spoon in as much filling as you like, crown it with chilled lobster, then finish with bacon crumbles. If the soup of the day happens to be lobster bisque, consider it a win. Dry-aged, bone-in ribeyes hit the table flawlessly cooked. Every. Single. Time. And the sides of potatoes au gratin and creamed spinach prove that indulgence is the point.

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